Hedi Slimane Is aware of We All Need to Costume Like Moody French Teenagers

In an business obsessive about youth, few designers have returned to the teenage daydream properly as usually — and as totally — as Hedi Slimane, especially with his recent collections for Celine. For Summer 2021, he went all-in on TikTok culture, sending models racing around a track in Monaco wearing Gen-Z-ready, subtly-branded baseball caps and sports bras. But with Winter 2021, he’s swinging back towards his ’70s chic vision for Celine, merging those bon chic bon genre sensibilities with a sort of teenage rebellion.

There’s not much by way of show notes beyond a few brief literary quotes and a line indicating that the collection, dubbed “Parade,” is about “an utopian parade and melancholic daydream of youth interrupted.” Set in the André le Nôtre gardens at the Vaux-le-Vicomte château (echoes of his sweeping Celine Homme “Teen Night Poem” collection, which took over Château de Chambord), models stomped across gravel in sturdy black boots worn under straight-legged denim and sweeping midi-skirts in plaids and florals. That relaxed sensibility is contrasted with oversized blazers and louche trench coats, sequined cardigans and tweed jackets over pussy-bow blouses and cropped turtlenecks. There are flashes of glamour in a pleated silver skirt or a sequined jogger, though it’s not stuffy or serious in the styling. Even the finale look — a stiffly-shaped bell skirt in gold — is worn with a hoodie underneath a bomber jacket.

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