Pieter Mulier’s Alaïa Debut Is Stuffed with Tributes to the Home (and Its Founder)

As one other season of Haute Couture Style Week kicked off in Paris over the weekend, all eyes had been on the home that Azzedine Alaïa built.

Since its founder’s passing in 2017, everything the brand put out was the product of a collective of designers working off Alaïa’s extensive archive — until this past Sunday, when Pieter Mulier, best known as Raf Simons’s longtime right-hand man, took over as creative director. The excitement was two-fold: for what the Belgian designer would do now that he was going out on his own, and for what this new chapter of Maison Alaïa would look like. 

At least in this first collection, Mulier isn’t straying far from Azzedine’s vision. In fact, Spring 2022 pays tribute to the designer’s legacy in ways that are both subtle and more instantly recognizable. 

“An homage to Alaïa — man, master, maison — and to femininity, which Azzedine Alaïa cherished and championed above all else,” the show notes read. “A celebration of the innate and eternal values of Alaïa, of the power of the hand and instinctive creation.” 

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