It was onerous to maintain observe of style’s seasons — and who was displaying what when — even earlier than 2020 flipped the trade’s approach of doing issues on its head. Now, we’re seeing Resort, Cruise and Winter collections within weeks of each other, while waiting on a handful of Fall 2021 debuts from key industry players.
Alexander McQueen has opted to sit out fashion week over the past year-plus, instead releasing its latest collections on its own timeline, often months after they’d typically walk the runway in Paris. But as it happens with all things McQueen, the wait is worth it.
In lieu of hosting a show, the brand’s Fall 2021 collection by Sarah Burton debuts on Tuesday through a series of portraits by Paolo Roversi. “It feels like now is a time for healing, for breathing new life, for exploring echoes from the past to enrich our future,” Burton wrote in the collection notes. “More than ever, a sense of humanity, of the team working together with a single aim — to make something beautiful, something meaningful — feels both precious and important.”
For autumn, the Alexander McQueen team was inspired by water (“for its healing properties”) and anemones (“the most ephemeral flowers, here made permanent in cloth”): “The women wearing the anemone dresses almost become like flowers, like their embodiment, their character — but amplified, grounded, radiant and strong.”
The floral is abstracted and blown up across black and rose gold poly faille dresses and skirts, as well as white jersey T-shirts and heavy-gauge knits; the print also appears on the sleeves of a black leather biker jacket. Elsewhere, the biker silhouette is softened and elevated with thoughtful touches — a sweetheart neckline and eyelet detail here, a cinched peplum waist there. Alexander McQueen’s acclaimed tailoring and precision is seen through corseting and panelling, as well as in the use of fine embroidery on silk, asymmetric cuts and contrasting fabric pairings (think faille with denim).
See the full Alexander McQueen Fall 2021 collection in the gallery below.