In the present day marks the beginning of a fairly important New York Trend Week. After two seasons of digital trend chaos, we’re returning to in-person trend chaos; and designers who might have been hesitant, or below an excessive amount of monetary pressure, to make their trend week debuts amid a lockdown are gearing as much as hit the runway for the primary time — not less than on the official NYFW schedule.
There are a variety of promising new names actually worthy of strapping on a masks and flashing your vaccination card to see, like Kith and Bode alum Connor McKnight or CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund finalist Khiry. There are also a couple of names that may be familiar, like Moschino, which typically shows in Milan or Los Angeles (though its designer Jeremy Scott is no stranger to NYC), and the much quieter Peter Do, a commercially successful industry darling.
Read on to meet them all.
New York-based Do (and the design team with whom he prefers to share the spotlight) has established himself as one of the city’s most promising talents to watch since debuting in 2018, without pursuing much press or attention. Having worked for Phoebe Philo, he piqued the interest of many a Philophile with his considered, modern, luxurious wares. The brand is already in major retailers like Net-a-Porter, Matchesfashion and Nordstrom, and has dressed celebrities like Zendaya and Beyoncé. Suffice it to say, its NYFW debut on Wednesday will be among the week’s hottest tickets.
Moschino is a newcomer only in the sense that the Italian brand, which usually shows in Milan, has never shown on the official New York Fashion Week schedule. Its last time showing in the city was in December 2019, when it unveiled Pre-Fall 2020 at the New York Transit Museum. Of course, designer Jeremy Scott has shown his namesake line in New York since its inception, and this season’s departure comes at a time when support for American fashion is a pressing concern.
With Kith and Bode on his resumé, it’s no surprised that Brooklyn-based Connor McKnight’s designs are, well, extremely cool. This isn’t another streetwear brand, though, but instead a line of timeless, high-quality wardrobe staples made for all gender identities. McKnight created the line in his apartment during lockdown, motivated by the Black Lives Matter movement. He’s already stocked by Nordstrom and Ssense, and in December won a design contest organized by the Black in Fashion Council and Fred Segal. He’ll make his NYFW debut Thursday.
Parsons graduate Sintra Martins launched her namesake line in 2020 and, since then, she’s done custom work for Olivia Rodrigo, Tinashe, Kim Petras and Emma Chamberlain, among others. Her designs are innovative, romantic and whimsical. Her first collection took inspiration from clowns, so it feels safe to say her NYFW debut on Tuesday won’t be boring.
Jameel Mohammed launched Khiry, an “Afrofuturist luxury brand,” in 2016 with the goal of channeling the “beauty, art, heritage and culture of the African diaspora” into fine and demi-fine jewelry, first, with more to come. His Spring 2022 collection, showing on Saturday, is called “Flights, Fights and Fantasies” and explores “the futility and utility of escapist impulses in addressing historical trauma and creating Black liberation,” according to the brand. Mohammed is also one of the 10 winners of the 2021 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund, and his designs have recently been spotted on Naomi Osaka, Amanda Gorman and Megan Thee Stallion, among others.
Deity New York
Designer Renee Bishop, who comes from a family of seamstresses, worked as a stylist and model before launching her womenswear line Deity New York in 2020. She designs timeless yet bold tailoring for powerful women, and will stage her first NYFW runway show on Saturday.
Black in Fashion Council Discovery Showroom at NYFW: The Shows, Sept. 8-12
Oma The Label
Par Bronte Laurent
Eugene Taylor Brand
New York Men’s Day, Sept. 8
KoH T (menswear and womenswear)
TEDDY VONRANSON (menswear)
William Frederick (menswear)
Carter Young (menswear)
Chelsea Grays (menswear)
FRIED RICE (genderless)
The Stolen Garment (genderless)