Milan Fashion Week kicked off strong Wednesday, with one of the most anticipated debuts of the season early on in the lineup: Kim Jones’ sophomore ready-to-wear collection for Fendi. And the designer was ready to party.
The Italian luxury house’s Spring 2022 women’s line “explores the joyful irreverence that has historically defined the house,” while also pushing “the empowered ease of [Jones’] vision for its future,” according to the show notes. Jones turned the clock back to the ’70s, with a desire to reinterpret “disco-age glamour” for a 2022 shopper, with a little help from a famed Studio 54 regular and friend of Jones’ predecessor at Fendi: the late fashion illustrator Antonio Lopez.
“While I’ve been looking at Karl’s legacy at the house, I’ve also been looking around him, at his contemporaries — at who he was interested in,” Jones said, in a statement. “Lopez was a friend of Karl’s, and has always been someone who inspired me. He was forward thinking; inclusive; looked up to by everyone from Andy Warhol to Steven Meisel and David Hockney. I wanted to introduce him to a new generation.”
Jones took some of Lopez’s original artwork (with the help and blessing of the Estate and Archive of Antonio Lopez and Juan Ramos) from the Fendi archives, including a hand-sketched logo, and used it as a starting point for the prints, leatherwork, lace and jacquards seen in the collection. A broader sense of the electric, festive feeling of being in a disco club informs everything from the apparel (long, flowy trousers, low-cut tops belted high at the waist, mini dresses galore) to the accessories (from the rainbow Baguettes and graphic Peekaboos to the enamel floral hair clips and plexiglass hoop earrings), as well as the runway, which was dotted with mirror columns.
Beyond the designs, that energy mirrors what Jones wanted audiences to get out of his latest outing for the house: “This is my first live show for Fendi, and it’s a celebration. Our woman has let loose a bit – she’s going out, dressing up. We’ve all been locked away for so long that I think that’s what we all need right now.”
See the full Fendi Spring 2022 collection in the gallery, below.